Monday, 6 February 2012 | Now viewing:  WineChap
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Le Gavroche

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Last updated: August 16, 2010

Address:
43 Upper Brook Street W1K 7QR
Phone:
020 7499 1826
Website:
Rating:
Good For:
Mature vintages, Champagne, Old World, French

Rating Breakdown:
Range of wines: 18/20
Personality: 20/20
Value for money: 9/10
Rating Total: 47/50

List Summary

So very French, you have to love it. In a forty page list with over 1800 bins the Grand Cru Burgundies from DRC (including '85 for 8500) take up the same space as that alloted to the rest of the world outside France! (Although generously - Italian reds, Barolo and Amarone mostly, get their own page.) A droolworthy Champagne selection, with more vintages from the 50s and 60s than you will find in the rest of London's restaurants put together, kickstarts the list. WineChap notes joyfully there is not a single Burgundy younger than 2002 on the list, and most at terrific value with prices for Grand Cru wines other joints sell their 1er Crus at and 1er Crus for the price of village wines, (check out the wines from Deleger for great bargains). Good selection of older Alsace Rieslings and dry white Bordeaux and a sprawling collection of inexpensive regional French reds (under 30, from the 90s and older - possibly some are getting a bit tired but at this price something like Chateau Jaubertie (Bergerac) 1989 at 26 has got to be worth a punt).

This is all window dressing though because lets get one thing straight: - You are here to drink claret. As a note on value genuinely - at WineChap we are seeing a trend of overpricing one particular wine - Sassicaia 1997 (listed at Claridges for 790) here is selling at 352, little more needs to be said... The list ends with a boggling collection of magnums and enviable port selection. A meagre selection by the glass (although very reasonably priced) shows a justifiable contempt for a culture which increasingly prefers a Pret sandwich and bottle of Evian at one's desk to a full four courses at lunch. Having said that where else could you enjoy a glass of Ch d'Yquem 81 (90) or Pedro Ximenez (8!). Jacket and tie obligatory of course but this list is so deserving of respect that all guests should be forced to arrive in a chauffeur-driven Silver Shadow in white tie and tails.

List Review Wine Key:
Sparkling
White
Rose
Red
Sweet
Fortified

By The Glass
Most interesting available by the glass }
Pinot Blanc, Leon Beyer 2006 | £5
Ch de Villgeorge, Haut-Medoc 1999 | £8
By The Half
Most interesting available by the half bottle }
Veuve Cliquot 1995 | £54
Meursault Poruzots Dom Francois Mikulski 1999 | £50.50
Ch Beauregard Ducasse 1996 | £25
Ch Gloria 2000 | £38
Gewurz 'Cuvee de Commes d'Eguisheim' Leon Beyer 1989 | £24
Value Option
Best under £35/$50/bottom 20% of list PLUS any particularly rare bargains at ANY price point }
Bergerac Cuvee de Conti Ch Tour des Gendres 2002 | £24
St Veran paquet 2003 | £29
Cote de Rousillon Villages, Domaine Gauby 2001 | £23
Ch Le Raz (Bergerac) 1998 | £16.50
1st Date
Impressive but not too showy: circa £50 – but a wine that shows one’s connoisseurship rather than just size of wallet/expense account }
Meursault Les Corbins Michel Colin Deleger et Fils 2000 | £54
Ch Leoville Poyferre 1998 | £56
Bonnezeaux 'La Chapelle' Gaston Lenotre 1990 | £57.30
Off the Beaten Track
Ruinart Pere et Fils "Reserve de Baron Philippe de Rotschild" (sic) 1959 | £290
Ch Chalon 1921, Jean Bourdy | £380
Mauzac - Le vin de Voile 1983 Robert Plageoiles | £48
Vendange de Novembre - Domaine Girardin 1997 | £63
Old School Classic
Classic (usually French or Italian – depending on dominant cuisine), from the middle of the list – a good wine, with age to stick on expenses and impress crusty wine bores/board members }
Corton, Chandon de Briailles 1995 | £110
Jacquart Brut 'La Cuvee Nominee' 1988 £110 |
Ch Larivet Haut Brion 1985 | £120
Ch Rayne Vigneau 1983 | £122
Treat Yourself
Remember when you used to get a bonus? not necessarily most expensive – but a real treat, rare, particularly good vintage etc }
Montrachet 1990 DRC | £3100
1961 Krug magnum 1961 | £1250
Petrus 1945 | £15,000
Mouton Rothschild 1870 | £9500
D'Yquem 1849 | £18,800
Over the Hill
Old Dogs (knackered, well past their prime) }
Possibly one or two that should be retired (but like crusty old buffers snnoring in their armchairs at Boodles, they are mostly harmless add a picturesque charm). |
Oh the Shame!
Ch Latour 1990 | £10,000
House Wine Index
Number of House wines available by the glass & the mean price }
N/A
Bollinger Index
Price of a bottle Bollinger }
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