Craft
Address:
43 E 19th St
New York, NY 10003
Phone:
212-780-0880
Website:
Rating:
Good For:
Old World, New World, USA, Old World, New World, USA
List Summary
There is something that is deceptively simple about Tom Colicchio's cooking. His food appears so straightforward that it can be misinterpreted as conservative. And, although the menu reads like one big under-promise, almost every dish over-delivers.The same is true for the wine list. Nothing reaches so far that we find ourselves struggling to find an edge to grab on to. It is straightforward (although not without its subtle challenges) and is well-suited to Craft's varied clientele: tourists, suits, neighborhood folk, Colicchio groupies, etc.
It suffers from a lack of vintage depth, but wears its limitations wisely, as it leans toward a preference for the domestics (which tend to be better suited for early consumption) and steers clear (aside for one notable Pommard grenade) of the surly '05 red Burgs in favor of the 06s and 04s. So, while it is not at all canonical, it also isn't off endorsing vinous infanticide either.
List Review Wine Key:
Sparkling
White
Rose
Red
Sweet
Fortified
| By The Glass { Most interesting available by the glass } |
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| Gruner Veltliner 2006, Fritsch | $16 |
| Pouilly Fuisse 2006, Chateau Fuisse | $17 |
| Malbec, “Rapsodia” 2006 Finca Abril | $15 |
| Syrocco 2007, Thalvin | $12 |
| By The Half { Most interesting available by the half bottle } |
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| Chablis 'Vaillons' 1er Cru 2004, Dauvissat | $48 |
| Ok so this isn’t exactly the kind of wine you want to sit in a dark corner with, but sometimes simplicity is bliss. This is simple, sprightly stuff. Wine we wouldn’t judge you for shotgunning. |
| Krug, Grand Cuvee | $100 |
| In a few spots around town we’re seeing the Krug 375ml at a quarter of the price of the full bottle. Craft goes one better and offers Krug by the glass for $30. |
| Value Option { Best under £35/$50/bottom 20% of list PLUS any particularly rare bargains at ANY price point } |
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| Mercurey Blanc 2005, Domaine du Meix-Foulot | $48 |
| Small traditional gem from the Rosenthal portfolio. All biodynamic, no pesticides, wild yeast and a hell of a lot of heart. Rich and earthy with plenty of zippy acidity to balance things out. |
| Savennieres ‘Les Genets’ 2005, Damien Laureau | $62 |
| Sturdy, dry Savy with plenty of beef and the intelligent mineral-driven organization to back it up. Under the radar producer that is rarely seen out in the open market. Graceful Cheny despite its size. |
| Pouilly-Fuissé 'Les Ménétrières' 1997, J.A. Ferret | $87 |
| A fantastic under-the-radar artisan that has managed to elevate Pouilly’s rep from round easy Chard to culty, terroir-driven geek wine. in its zone now. |
| Kerner 2008, Abbazia di Novacella | $56 |
| The love child of Schiava and Riesling, Kerner is the first language of these true old-timers (one of the dustiest wineries in the world c. 1142). Highly aromatic and full-bodied with plenty of acidity to back it up. |
| Negroamaro 'Maru' 2008, Castello Monaci | $40 |
| Chug-worthy juice from the heel of the boot. Fruit-forward with enough acidity to wash down all the pasta you can eat. |
| Crozes-Hermitage 2006, Alain Graillot | $68 |
| Crozes-Herm is a favorite hideout for bargain hunters in the Rhone and Graillot is the standard bearer. Year after year his juice is textbook to the grape. Spin in the decanter to break the ice. |
| Valtellina Superiore 'Inferno Riserva' 2005, Aldo Rainoldi | $80 |
| From a sun-scorched Lombardian cliff that would give the Mosel a run for its money, Rainoldi somehow defies death and manages to produce this rustic, yet elegant rendition of Nebbiolo. |
| 1st Date { Impressive but not too showy: circa £50 – but a wine that shows one’s connoisseurship rather than just size of wallet/expense account } |
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| Savennières Roche Aux Moines 'Cuvée d’Avant' 2003, Château de Chamboureau | $70 |
| textbook Savy -- firm but throwing all kinds of earth and stone fruit in your date’s sensory direction. |
| Barolo 2001, Fontanafredda | $80 |
| Finally, a bank that can do something right. Formerly the Royal Grounds of the King of Italy and now owned by the Bank of Siena, Fontanafredda and its pinstriped board made the wise choice in '98 to hire Danilo Drocco, former winemaker at Prunotto, to take their house into a new, non-mediocre era. Masterful bridge between modern and classic. |
| Old School Classic { Classic (usually French or Italian – depending on dominant cuisine), from the middle of the list – a good wine, with age to stick on expenses and impress crusty wine bores/board members } |
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| Bienvenue Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 Domaine Ramonet | $675 |
| Unico 1995, Vega Sicilia | $650 |
| Treat Yourself { Remember when you used to get a bonus? not necessarily most expensive – but a real treat, rare, particularly good vintage etc } |
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| Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2004, Chateau Rayas | $230 |
| One of the most famous, sought after producers in the Rhone (and in all of France for that matter) here in blanc form. Big, rich, and floral. Could use a spin in the decanter. |
| Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2004, Chateau Rayas | $230 |
| One of the most famous, sought after producers in the Rhone (and in all of France for that matter) here in blanc form. Big, rich, and floral. Could use a spin in the decanter. |
| Riesling Auslese 'Abtsberg #67' 1988, Maximin Grünhaus | $270 |
| A perfect storm of producer, vintage, and terroir. The battle hardened winemakers at Grunhaus has been wincing up that cliff face we call the Abtsberg for centuries now and they know how to crack the whip and get results. This is single-cask juice, with barely a handful available in the world. A dense, complex revelation of a Riesling. |
| Valbuena 5° 2003, Vega Sicilia | $375 |
| Second label from Spain’s most revered (bordering on mythical) producer. This is rich, powerful stuff and even though 2003 was a hot year, Vega managed to preserve Valbuena’s freshness. |
| Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva 1978, Lopez de Heredia | $354 |
| The quintessential classic Rioja. Brick orange, and bursting with a burlap bag full of classic goodies. Tastes like a bunch of hippies day-tripping in spring. |
| Valbuena 5° 2003, Vega Sicilia | $375 |
| Second label from Spain’s most revered (bordering on mythical) producer. This is rich, powerful stuff and even though 2003 was a hot year, Vega managed to preserve Valbuena’s freshness. |
| Volnay 1er Cru 'Les Aussy' 2001, Bitouzet-Prieur | $135 |
| Despite having more than two hundred years of history in the Cote de Beune, the Bitouzet family remains an obscure micro-producer. Meaty, balanced, and just now starting to pull back the curtain. |
| Infanticide { Wines being sold too young, and a prime indicator of sommelier’s integrity. Usually found towards the expensive end of a list with big names thrown in for several or more hundred pounds despite being years off drinking to that price. } |
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| Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Bryant Family | $1,150 |
| Oh the Shame! |
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| Pomerol 1982, Chateau Petrus | $12,000 |
| Crowd pleaser { Well known, trusted producer, region or varietal. No surprises, no disappointments } |
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| Riesling Eins Zwei Dry '3' 2008, Leitz | $45 |
| Carmignano, 2004, Villa di Capezzana | $55 |
| House Wine Index
{ Number of House wines available by the glass & the mean price } |
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| N/A |
| Krug Index
{ Price of a bottle Bollinger } |
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| $100 (375ml) |
