Corton
Address:
239 W Broadway
New York, NY 10013
Phone:
212-219-2777
Website:
Rating:
Good For:
Mature vintages, French
List Summary
Corton is restaurateur Drew Nieporent’s collaboration with Chef Paul Liebrandt and it occupies the space once held Montrachet's legendary wine list. Here we find another legend-in-the-making that has merely traded Montrachet for another equally highbrow crew and snagged itself two fresh new Michelin stars. Smooth move.But the wine list requires toggling between two parallel worlds. There is the in-house list designed for mere mortals -- a place where we meet Camille Giroud, Nicholas Joly, Lynch Bages, and so forth. These are wines of respectable social birth, for sure, but not quite fit for the gods (or so in the eyes of Corton).
This other ‘godly dimension’ is housed inside the Reserve List, where selections must be phoned in 24 hrs in advance of the reservation. Here we find Bacchanalian titans in back vintages priced so as not to offend or excite. It is as deep and intelligent as any French wine fan could hope for, and it even offers a fine selection of wines from outside the motherland.
But for the purposes of the frantic advice seeker or the mere mortal, the in-house list is succinct and provocative and offers plenty of options that, in our minds, are perfectly fit to toe the line between these two worlds.
List Review Wine Key:
Sparkling
White
Rose
Red
Sweet
Fortified
| By The Glass { Most interesting available by the glass } |
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| Maconnais Blanc de Blancs NV, Jean Claude Thevenet | $18 |
| Riesling ‘Herrenweg’ 2007, Barmes Buecher $16 | $16 |
| Cote-Rotie ‘Les Grandes Bastides’ 2003, Tardieu-Laurent | $25 |
| Chinon ‘Les Galuches’ 1996, JM Raffault | $22 |
| By The Half { Most interesting available by the half bottle } |
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| Bordeaux Blanc 2008, Chateau Lamothe de Haux | $38 |
| Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Cuvee Bertin’ 2006, Lignier-Michelot | $68 |
| Value Option { Best under £35/$50/bottom 20% of list PLUS any particularly rare bargains at ANY price point } |
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| Bouzeron 2008, A&P de Villaine | $48 |
| Aligote is an ancient Burgundian varietal that has managed to remain one of the region’s best kept secrets. Sourced from vines planted by the monks of Cluny in the Middle Ages. As a result, Bouzeron has established a rep for producing some serious terroir-driven stuff. This is all lightening, white fruit, and tea. |
| Montlouis-sur-Loire ‘Cuvee Touche-Mitaine’ 2007, Le Rocher des Violettes | $58 |
| At just 31 years old, Xavier Weisskopf is one of the Loire Valley’s rising stars, crafting some brilliant treats out of his 15th century cellar in the covert Mountlouis appellation. Grown in limestone and pruned down by a dungeon master, this juice is pure, focused chenin in all its honeyed, woolly glory. Fabulously rich for an entry level cuvee. |
| Saint-Joseph ‘Offerus’ 2006, J.L. Chave | $70 |
| Baby brother to the monster Hermitage from this historic estate. 100% Syrah. Stink, spice, elegance. |
| Santenay 1er Cru ‘Gravieres’ 1993, Chapelle | $115 |
| After stacking his resume at elite estates like Lafarge, Ramonet, Hubert Montille and more, Paul Chapelle started his own label in the 70s from this small plot of Santenay. The traditionalist style makes for austere juice on release, but pretty fantastic stuff at this ripe old age. Forest floor, sappy red fruit, and an a fantastic price for Burg pushing twenty years old. |
| 1st Date { Impressive but not too showy: circa £50 – but a wine that shows one’s connoisseurship rather than just size of wallet/expense account } |
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| Ladoix 'Bois de Gréchons' 2004, Domaine Chevalier | $63 |
| Dense and smoky Chard from a little known vineyard that occupies a prime spot halfway up the fabled hill of Corton. Balanced and luxe stuff with a QPR that slays the competition. |
| Sancerre Rouge 'Croix du Roy' 2006, Lucien Crochet | $68 |
| Yes Virginia, there is Pinot Noir grown in Sancerre, and it’s delicious. Crochet is the standard bearer for Sancerre and his Croix du Roy cru is the ultimate classic in blanc or rouge. Taut and earthy. |
| Old School Classic { Classic (usually French or Italian – depending on dominant cuisine), from the middle of the list – a good wine, with age to stick on expenses and impress crusty wine bores/board members } |
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| St-Julien Grand Cru 1983, Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou | $225 |
| Treat Yourself { Remember when you used to get a bonus? not necessarily most expensive – but a real treat, rare, particularly good vintage etc } |
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| Hermitage 1995, J.L. Chave | $375 |
| (RESERVE LIST) Syrah the way God intended it. A true traditional monolith of all things N Rhone. Dark, broody density, and enough funk to warrant a corral. Order a decant ASAP. |
| Pichon-Longueville ‘Comtesse de Lalande’ 1988 | $250 |
| (RESERVE LIST) Not much has to be said about this baby. Healthy 21-year-old that is showing very well. Glossy fruit, cassis and solid back row of earth and mineral. Incredible value on an underrated, more restrained vintage. |
| Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1995, Georges Roumier | $425 |
| (RESERVE LIST) Roumier is one of the most important names when it comes to Red Burg and his Charmes is always the most underrated (and generally more affordable) of his Grand Cru holdings. Drinking with its shirt unbuttoned to the navel, but give it a run in the decanter to guard against any immediate indecencies. |
| Pinot Noir ‘Olivet Lane’ 1994, Williams-Selyem | $300 |
| (RESERVE LIST) From one of the most respected names in Sonoma Pinot Noir, a rare chance to tuck into CA PN that has arrived at a refined, peaceful state. |
| Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ‘Intistieti’ 1995, Case Basse di Soldera | $400 |
| (RESERVE LIST) Gianfranco is one of if not the best producers of traditional Brunelli in all of Italy. A sleeper vintage for Montalcino and one that showcases the lean, sheer beauty of Soldera’s wines. |
| Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’ 1997, Jaboulet Aine | $215 |
| Chambolle-Musigny 1996, Hudelot-Noellat | $135 |
| erhaps the best loved village wine in Burg, Chambolle’s simultaneous finesse and aromatic concentration has a way of provoking an obsession with PN. If you’re not already having a torrid affair with the grape, Hudelot-Noellat’s romantic style may just push you over the edge. A sleek piece of work, balanced and high-toned. |
| Crowd pleaser { Well known, trusted producer, region or varietal. No surprises, no disappointments } |
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| Nuits-St-Georges Blanc 1er Cru ‘Clos de l’Arlot’ 1998, Domaine de l’Arlot | $165 |
| L’Arlot’s wines are reliably restrained, elegant wines with authenticity and purpose. White Nuits are few and far between, and this is perhaps the finest example we’ve found. Intense, powerful wine that should show well at present. |
| Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Hauts Pruliers’ 1989, Daniel Rion | $175 |
| What a find. Seeing Rion Premier Cru hanging out at this age is the sort of thing that gives us goosebumps. A great opportunity to drink high on the maturity hill for a (relative) steal. |
| House Wine Index
{ Number of House wines available by the glass & the mean price } |
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| 14 wines available by the glass at an average price of $23. |
| Krug Index
{ Price of a bottle Bollinger } |
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| $147 (375ml) |
