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Vinegar Hill House

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Last updated: July 28, 2010

Address:
72 Hudson Ave Brooklyn, NY 11201
Phone:
718-522-1018
Website:
Rating:
Good For:
Biodynamic / Organic, Quirky, Old World

Rating Breakdown:
Range of wines: 5/20
Personality: 17/20
Value for money: 9/10
Rating Total: 31/50

List Summary

If we envision an indigenous Brooklyn wine culture, it might read a lot like this little list of oddities. We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, what better place to spring artisan wine from Limoux on the world than in the borough, which is home to some of the city’s most progressive and adventurous folk (sorry Staten Island, you did make the cut).

Almost every wine on the list is under $50. Last time we checked, the only places in the city with this many affordable wines were Perilla and The Olive Garden. If we are talking about only drinkable wine, we eliminate The Olive Garden. And, if we are talking about geeky and exciting wine, this hoists the trophy.

Although Vinegar Hill may be the least accessible neighborhood in BK (it’s a draw between it and Redhook), this is well worth the bicycle ride.

List Review Wine Key:
Sparkling
White
Rose
Red
Sweet
Fortified

Value Option
Best under £35/$50/bottom 20% of list PLUS any particularly rare bargains at ANY price point }
Cour-Cheverny ‘Le Porte Doree’ 2006, Philippe Tessier | $32
Big, gregarious wine from a tiny appellation in the central Loire—the only place where this varietal (Romarantin) is produced. No shortage on aromatics, a solid core of silky ripe fruit, trademark bitter almond, and plenty of acidity.
Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaugiraut’ 2006, Oudin | $52
Under the radar producer with two tiny 1er Cru holdings in Chablis. This is old school Chablis through and through—mineral-driven, racy wine that demands the octo.
Savuto 2005, Odoardi | $26
Gaglioppo has replaced Aglianico as the favorite under-the-radar gem varietal. Generally sports a N. Rhone-esque nose with Barbera sensibilities.
Babiole 2008, Andrea Calek | $45
A card-carrying member of France?s lunatic periphery, Calek is a freak of monumental proportions. He lives in a trailer amongst his vines in Ard?che (SW France), but his wines - when he nails them - are beautiful, raw representations of the varietals and their terroir. Babiole is just that: medium-bodied, versatile, and honest.
1st Date
Impressive but not too showy: circa £50 – but a wine that shows one’s connoisseurship rather than just size of wallet/expense account }
Riesling Spätlese ‘Erdener Treppchen’ 1999, Sankt Anna | $48
Perhaps the best value on the list. Eleven-year-old Sp?t from this low-key husband and wife team. Classic, well made Mosel ?sling.
Primitivo Di Giola Del Colle ‘Antello delle Murge’ 2005, C. Guttarolo | $49
One of the great artisan winemakers in Southern Italy, Guttarolo puts out minuscule quantities (less than 1,000 cases of wine are produced each year) of true terroir-driven juice. The Antello delle Murge - with its palate of meat, minerals, and magic?earns Guttarolo the right to spit on every other producer in his general Puglian vicinity.
Off the Beaten Track
Marcillac ‘Lo Sang del Pais’ 2009, Domaine du Cros | $29
Made with 100% Fer Servadou (a grape indigenous to SW france), Domaine du Cros’ Lo Sang del Pais, meaning “blood of the country,” is just exactly that. Rustic, random, and distinctly aromatic.
La Mothe 2007, Domaine Pechigo | $35
This blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Mauzac might be in improbable crew, but it's also one of the great natural wines on the market today. It's dry, but still quite rich, something you might expect from the joined forces of Chenin and Chard. Super aromatic and slightly oxidized. Geeky, but accessible for the non-nerd crowd.
Dingač 2005, Dingač Vinarija | $65
Croatia is likely one of the more random appearances on wine lists in the U.S., but the country is no stranger to serious winemaking or wealthy American tourists. Dingač is considered the finest of Croatian wines, and is so distinctive in fact, that it’s protected under the Geneva Convention. Seriously. It hails from the south slopes of the Peljesac Peninsula and is comprised of the brooding, sensitive Plavac Mali grape
Treat Yourself
Remember when you used to get a bonus? not necessarily most expensive – but a real treat, rare, particularly good vintage etc }
Grand Cru Brut ‘Initial’ NV, Jacques Selosse | $180
The pricing on this wine may alone warrant a visit. It’s the cheapest we’ve ever seen this wine on any list - most list it for $300-$325 - and for those who do not know: Selosse is one of the region’s true mavericks. In his advocacy for terroir, he has forced producers and consumers alike to change their expectations of Champagne. His ‘Initial’ is a blend of three vintages that’s disgorged after 2 years. Singular and perspective-changing.
Saumur Champigny 2004, Clos Rougeard | $110
The rarest and most sought-after Saumur to be had, this is the finest example of Cab Franc in this terroir, period. Barnyard, smoke, minerals, and some seriously moody black fruit. Lap in the decanter recommended.
Oh the Shame!
Carignane ‘Testa’ 2008, Coturri | $49
Now when it comes to the top of the natural wine movement, we can get down with the weird and unpredictable, but when big fruit gets oxidized, it’s just gross. Tony Coturri delivers on many of his wines, but they can be inconsistent, and when they slip up they drink like baked goblin. So beware.
Crowd pleaser
Well known, trusted producer, region or varietal. No surprises, no disappointments }
Gruner Veltliner 2009, Berger | $38
The famed cheapo soda pop-topped organic producer and their uber value-driven 1L GruVe separates the boys from the men. This is essentially a 40 oz. for grown ups - crisp, likeable, and party-starting.
Castel del Monte ‘Melograno’ 2007, Santa Lucia | $29
One of the many ancient Greek varietals that has found its way back en vogue. All organic, with a minimal addition of sulphur, produces a wine with soft, forward fruit, and plenty of earthy intrigue.
House Wine Index
Number of House wines available by the glass & the mean price }
N/A
Krug Index
Price of a bottle Bollinger }
$300