Angelus
Address:
4 Bathurst Street, Bayswater,London W2 2SD
Phone:
020 7402 0083
Website:
Rating:
Good For:
French
List Summary
Eclectic and personality-driven, reminiscent of a private cellar full of the favourites of a connoisseur with very particular tastes, there is nothing here that Thierry doesn't have a clear desire to list - you have to imagine there is an anecdote behind every wine.This is very definitely a list for Francophiles; of a 26 page list, just one is given to whites from all other regions. Red Argentina, Chile, South Africa and New Zealand are each represented by just a bottle a piece, but this is made up for by an enviable top-end Australian and American showing.
While the prices are not too eye-watering, its isnt really one to appreciate on a tight budget, there is some vintage depth scattered throughout and a very scanty selection by the glass is explained away quite convincingly as demonstrating the restaurant's desire to serve all their wines in peak condition not from two or three day old bottles vacuum-pumped to maintain condition (the effects of which WineChap agrees are, like plastic surgery, acceptable when barely noticeable but off-putting when observed).
List Review Wine Key:
Sparkling
White
Rose
Red
Sweet
Fortified
| By The Glass { Most interesting available by the glass } |
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 Not a particularly large selection by the glass, but the selection of bottles by the half is more extensive | |
| Domaine de Coste Viognier-Grenache 2010, Cotes de Thongue, Languedoc-Roussillon | £6 |
| Chateau Civrac 2007, Cotes de Bourg, Bordeaux | £7 |
| By The Half { Most interesting available by the half bottle } |
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| Ladoix “Bois de Gréchons” 2008, Domaine Claude Chevalier Père & Fils | £36 |
| Serralunga d’Alba 2007, Fontanafredda, D.O.C.G. Barolo, Piedmont | £44 |
| Fleurie 2010, Cuvee du Poncie, Domaine du Vissoux | £23 |
| Value Option { Best under £35/$50/bottom 20% of list PLUS any particularly rare bargains at ANY price point } |
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| Gaillac 2009, Chateau Clement Termes , SW France | £22 |
| Roussette de Savoie 2008, Domaine Bruno Lupin, Savoie | £31 |
| Crasto 2008, Quinta do Crasto , Douro, Portugal | £22 |
| Chateau Montouliers 2009, Minervois, Languedoc-Roussillon | £22 |
| 1st Date { Impressive but not too showy: circa £50 – but a wine that shows one’s connoisseurship rather than just size of wallet/expense account } |
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| Saint-Joseph Cote Sainte Epine Domaine Desestret 2006 Rhone | £43 |
| Anwilka Proprietary 2005, Stellenbosch, South Africa | £60 |
| Two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon to one third Shiraz, the raspberry, redcurrant and blackberry fruits are nicely balanced by cracked black pepper, liquorice and spicy oak. |
| Cotes du Rhone “la Sierra du Sud” 2009, Dmaine Gramenon | £58 |
| Medium bodied with fresh crunchy red and black fruits and light tannin. |
| Maury “Solera” NV 1928, Cask 828, Les Vignerons de Maury (50cl) | £56 |
| Rich and chocolatey with undertones of coffee, spice and candied fruits. |
| Off the Beaten Track |
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| "Lo Sang del Pais" 2009, Domaine du Cros, Marcillac, S.W. France | £26 |
| Made from the Mansois grape, known locally as Fer or Fer Servadou, this is a supple red with juicy raspberry flavours underpinned by slate and gravel notes and a perfume of its perfume of ground red pepper and spice. At the moment this is available chilled - definitely an intriguing choice! |
| Old School Classic { Classic (usually French or Italian – depending on dominant cuisine), from the middle of the list – a good wine, with age to stick on expenses and impress crusty wine bores/board members } |
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| Riesling 2002, Clos “Häuserer”, Domaine Zind Humbrecht | £105 |
| Savennières, “Coulée de Serrant”, Domaine Nicolas Joly, 2004, Loire | £130 |
| This shows intense ripeness, while maintaining a certain underlying austerity. Dominated by flavours of apricot with some exotic fruits and a finish of wet stone. |
| Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 1996, "Lavaux St-Jacques" Domaine Maume, Cote de Nuits | £120 |
| Treat Yourself { Remember when you used to get a bonus? not necessarily most expensive – but a real treat, rare, particularly good vintage etc } |
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| Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru 2003, Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils | £269 |
| Ermitage “De l’Orée”, 1992 Domaine Michel Chapoutier | £230 |
| Almost oleaginous and yet completely dry, richer than Richard Branson - this is a wine that should not be missed and proves Chapoutier’s mastery once again. |
| Shiraz 1998, Grange, Penfolds Wines, South Australia | £530 |
| Still phenomenally youthful, this will continue to evolve over the next couple of decades. Already showing beautiful blueberry and blackberry fruits, but multi-layered with spicy peppery notes, coffee and smoky earthiness. Voluptuous and smooth now and will only get better. |
| Chateau Angelus 1998, 1er Grand Cru Classe, Saint-Emilion | £435 |
| Full-bodied and rich; blackberries, plums, liquorice, spice coffee and a dusting of chocolate are all present in this complex bouquet and palate. |
| Château Coutet, Cuvée “Madame”, 1er Cru Classé, 1986, Barsac | £560 |
| Rich and intense, crammed with lush and honeyed tropical fruits. A decadent treat and an exceptional alternative to d’Yquem. |
| Infanticide { Wines being sold too young, and a prime indicator of sommelier’s integrity. Usually found towards the expensive end of a list with big names thrown in for several or more hundred pounds despite being years off drinking to that price. } |
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| WineChap can’t help noticing a few disappointingly young grand cru white burgundies. (Sadly this is clearly becoming a trend even amongst the more exciting lists in London) | |
| Crowd pleaser { Well known, trusted producer, region or varietal. No surprises, no disappointments } |
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| Sauvignon Blanc, Iona, 2009, Elgin, South Africa | £33 |
| A restrained and sophisticated sauvignon. |
| Le Chene Bleu 2009, VDP de Vaucluse | £39 |
| Lots of raspberry and strawberry summer fruits with crisp refreshing acidity. |
| VDP Principauté d’Orange “Terre de Bussière” 2007, Domaine de la Janasse, Rhone | £31 |
| House Wine Index
{ Number of House wines available by the glass & the mean price } |
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| 4 wines by the glass, average price £6.13 |
| Bollinger Index
{ Price of a bottle Bollinger } |
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| Bollinger Special Cuvee NV £92 |
