Thursday, 23 February 2012 | Now viewing:  WineChap
Switch to: UK | NYC | Hong Kong |

Quo Vadis

Share

Last updated: January 5, 2012

Address:
26-29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL
Phone:
0207 437 9585
Website:
Rating:
Good For:
Great Value, Old World, New World

Rating Breakdown:
Range of wines: 16/20
Personality: 15/20
Value for money: 8/10
Rating Total: 39/50

List Summary

A new look winelist for Sam and Eddie Hart’s Dean Street restaurant and members club c/o new group wine buyer Jack Lewens (previously the face of WineChap’s Hong Kong operation). The list has been comprehensively overhauled, the Latin bias shifted from Spain to Italy and some more exciting producers from both the new and old worlds make welcome appearances. More, and more affordable, by the glass options are accompanied by the now obligatory carafe offerings too (West End diners will soon forget what whole bottles look like). South West France gets a boost in red and particularly whites and the Alsace offering is attractive too. Look out for a couple of rising star Mark Haisma’s excellent Burgundies.

A deserved 4* upgrade on WineChap.

List Review Wine Key:
Sparkling
White
Rose
Red
Sweet
Fortified

By The Glass
Most interesting available by the glass }
Mâcon ‘La Roche-Vineuse’ (Chardonnay) Olivier Merlin, Burgundy, France | £7.60
Bodegas Tomas Cusine El Vilosell, 2008, Costers del Segre, Spain | £6.80
Blend of 43% tempranillo, 18% syrah, 16% cabernet sauvignon, 14% merlot, 6% samsó and 3% garnatxa.
Manzanilla La Gitana Hidalgo NV | £5.20
Bone-dry, fresh and tangy. Enjoy as an aperitif (with the salted almonds).
Value Option
Best under £35/$50/bottom 20% of list PLUS any particularly rare bargains at ANY price point }
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 'Conscio' 2009 Az Ag Accadia, Marche, Italy | £28
Reserve de Gassac Blanc Herault 2010, Mas de Daumas, Languedoc, France | £23
A blend of Viognier and Marsanne, plenty of fruit with a fresh clean finish.
Garnacha 2010 Bodega y Vinedos Monfil, Carinena, Spain | £18
Chambolle-Musigny Millesime 2008, Domaine Patrice Rion, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy | £28
1st Date
Impressive but not too showy: circa £50 – but a wine that shows one’s connoisseurship rather than just size of wallet/expense account }
Soave Classico 'La Rocca' (Garganega) 2009 Leonildo Pieropan, Veneto, Italy | £56
Superficially this may not seem like the most original of choices as Soave has had a reputation for making unexciting, bland white wines. Pieropan has been bucking this particular trend and have been the standard-bearers for Soave for decades. This is an aromatic white, boasting aromas of almonds and honey while the palate is long, showing stone and exotic fruits with an elegant and minerally finish.
Montlouis-sur-Loire 'Le Volagre' 2006, Stephane Cossais, Loire, France | £55
Notes of herbs, apples and delicate lemon notes on the nose, the palate is intense and rich with well-balanced mineral, citrus and herb characters. Chenin Blanc often gets overlooked, but wines like these are a useful reminder of just how elegant, full and intense Chenin can be.
Bolgheri Rosso 2008, Le Macchiole, Tuscany, Italy | £48
Deep cherry fruits, dark berries, chocolate and a touch of spice. An intriguing blend of Sangioseve, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Superb depth, balance and length.
Zinfandel Russian River 2006, Joseph Swan, California, USA | £52
Bright backberry fruit flavours and a touch of black pepper. Red zinfandel has become one of the signature wines of the United States, although DNA research has proven that it is in fact Italy's Primitivo under a different name.
Off the Beaten Track
Godello 2010 A Coroa, Valdeorras, Spain | £34
Schiopettino 2004, Bressan, Friuli Italy | £48
Burgenland Zweigelt 2009, Heinrich, Austria | £39
Old School Classic
Classic (usually French or Italian – depending on dominant cuisine), from the middle of the list – a good wine, with age to stick on expenses and impress crusty wine bores/board members }
Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2007, Chateau de Vaudieu, Rhone | £68
Cornas "Granit 60" 2008, Vincent Paris, N. Rhone, France | £78
Effortlessly combines the classic purity of Rhonish Syrah with a more modern style. The Granit 60 is made from Vincent?s oldest vines; terrifically complex with dark fruit flavours, some savoury spices and subtle aromas of violets.
Treat Yourself
Remember when you used to get a bonus? not necessarily most expensive – but a real treat, rare, particularly good vintage etc }
Hermitage 'Blanche' (Marsanne) 2007 Jean Louis Chave, Rhone, France | £82
Not just a classic, at this price a bit of a bargain too!
Valbuena 2003, Vega Sicilia, Ribera del Duero | £180
Chateau Latour 1995, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France | £800
Still on the more youthful side, but boasting exceptional purity of fruit and incredible length.
Crowd pleaser
Well known, trusted producer, region or varietal. No surprises, no disappointments }
Menetou Salon “Clos des Blanchais” 2009, Henri Pelle, Loire, France | £42
Bursting with fresh acidity, this is a superb and bright classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc.
Malbec 2008, Pulenta Estate, Mendoza, Argentina | £44
Sweet red and black fruits nicely balanced with a touch of spice and earthy notes.
Primitivo 'Gioia del Colle’ 2006, Faralone, Puglia | £36
House Wine Index
Number of House wines available by the glass & the mean price }
12 wines available by the glass, average price £6.38
Bollinger Index
Price of a bottle Bollinger }
N/A