Per Se
- Rating:
- Address:
- 10 Columbus Circle, 4th Floor New York, NY 10023
- Phone:
- 212-832-9335
- Good for:
- French, USA, Old World, Mature vintages
List review date: July 07, 2009
List Summary
It is hard not to feel like you’ve arrived looking out over Central Park from this pedigreed perch, filled with 20-ft-tall flower arrangements (or so it seems) and about three back handsprings of space (unfortunately we were unable to test our estimated measurement) between each table. And, by God you have. The sister restaurant to the French Laundry, which is considered the greatest restaurant in America, Per Se has proven that it is every bit as perfect.As you may have been able to guess, there are plenty of highfalutin things happening here—from the execution of the food, to the presentation, to the décor. This is not a criticism, and in fact if Per Se didn’t maintain a consistent level of pomp, the food wouldn’t make sense. It deserves the ceremony. In fact, it needs the ceremony. And with a wine list that is just as well executed as the food, so deserves the wine.
The somms serve every wine not only with detail, proper stemware, and a seemingly encyclopedic knowledge, but also in a much more engaging and enjoyable way than you’d expect from a group dressed in suits that’d put Patrick Bateman to shame.
While the wine list offers everything you could ask for, all in a seamless and un-cluttered format, we have to be frank. The real dining experience at this $275 per head Prix Fixe restaurant lies in having your wines paired with the courses. If you’re going to drop $500+ per couple on food alone, you might as well go all the way.
However, if you decide to go a la carte on wine, or if you are looking for something atmospheric, there are meticulous folds that you can tuck into with confidence. The list is chosen with such care that it is hard to go wrong anywhere. Of course, markups are rock hard, but let’s face it, no one comes to Per Se for a bargain. Most come here to bump glasses of Leflaive and casually crack half bottles of Mouton without looking at the price.
But, for those who do arrive on a budget, there’s the option of going entirely by the glass, which is anything but a disappointing route. With 47 selections ranging in price from $10 - $250, you could make a month of it.
While this isn’t exactly a list that offers something for everyone, per se (no pun intended), it does offer something for those who actually dine at a restaurant like this, and it does it with true depth, class, and attention to detail. Not surprisingly, this list is one of the city’s best for the non-budgeted.
- By The Glass
- Sparkling Brut ‘Empreinte’ 1er Cru MV, Rene Geoffroy | $32
- White 'Oslavje’ 2003, Radikon | $26
- White Gruner Veltliner Federspiel | $22
- Red Morey-St-Denis ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2006, Lucie et Auguste Lignier | $30
- Red Pauillac 1998, Gruaud Larose | $40
- Sweet Sauternes 1996, Rieussec $36 | $36
- Fortified Vintage Port 1985, Dow’s $45 | $45
- Fortified Madeira Sercial Frasquiera (dry) 1978, Barbeito | $50
- By The Half
- White Sauvignon Blanc ‘Cena Trimalchionis’ 2005, Scholium Project | $95
Totally off the wall. From swearing off soap to desiring to “banish fruit flavors in wine” Abe Schroeder’s view on winemaking (and his wines) is borderline psychedelic. This particular bottling is considered their craziest wine to date. The name "Cena Trimalchionis," (Roman novel Satyricon) alludes to the extraordinary tension between complex opulence and focused, clean acidity. - White Chablis 2007, Picq | $40
Perhaps the best value on the list (and from Chablis in general). This taught village-level bottling drinks heads above many of the 1er-ers out there. - Red Pinot Noir ‘Momtazi Vineyard’ 2007, St. Innocent | $75
One of our favorite Oregon producers. Under the radar Willamette candy with an Old World bend. - Red Chambolle-Musigny ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2006, Lignier-Michelot | $125
Ligni-Mich makes fantastic classic Burgs that have a curious tendency to show their bones young, especially from and opulent vintage like ‘06. - Red Mouton-Rothschild 1995 | $625
For the casual after work drink and a snack. Mouton from a classic vintage out of the split that is showing like a champ with a little aeration.
- White Sauvignon Blanc ‘Cena Trimalchionis’ 2005, Scholium Project | $95
- Value Option
- Sparkling Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Cuis MV, Pierre Gimonnet | $135
Creamy, refined bubbly from this excellent small grower. Perfect wine to ride through the entire meal. - White Riesling Kabinett ‘Saarburger Rausch’ 2001, Zilliken | $110
One of the greatest German Riesling vintages in the past 15 years. This is throwing petrol, earth, and rich stone fruit and is all balanced by searing, focused acidity and a touch of sweetness. Drinking this feels like finding 100 bucks in a parking lot. - White Riesling Federspiel ‘1000-Eimerberg’ 2007, Mauritiushof | $70
A great example of how feral some the Austrian ‘Sling can be. Named for how many buckets it takes to transport the grapes from this steeply terraced site. A classic, au natural production births this earthy, complicated ‘Sling from the exceptional ‘07 vintage. - White Valdeorras 2007, Vina Godeval | $65
Nearly extinct until 30 years ago, this fascintatingly complex varietal is giving Albarino (its Galacian neighbor) a run with its recent comeback. Fresh and delicately aromatic. Medium to full bodied on the palate, with a buoyant, nervy finish. - Red Blaufrankisch 2006, Moric | $85
2006 is an incredible vintage for Austrian reds, and Moric makes some of the best Blau in the country. Located in Burgenland, this estate pops out elegant, terroir-driven wines from vines over 100 years old. Juicy fruit, rustic acidity, and plenty of depth. - Red Saint-Joseph ‘Offerus’ 2006, J.L. Chave | $95
Baby brother to the monster Hermitage from this historic estate. 100% Syrah. Stink, spice, elegance. - Red Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Hardin | $85
Exceptional value for the New World fans. Cult Napa Cab for the masses, if you will.
- Sparkling Brut Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Cuis MV, Pierre Gimonnet | $135
- 1st Date
- Sparkling Brut Blanc de Blancs ‘Grande Cuvee’ 2002, Ployez Jacquemart | $195
Gorgeous vintage Blanc de Blancs from another stupendous grower. Focused, aromatic, and holding a bit more weight thanks to 7 years under the cap. - White Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Chenevottes’ 1999, Colin-Deleger | $220
Perhaps a tad pricey for a 1st date, but you’re at Per Se. You clearly mean business. Prove it. Racy and integrated with a beautiful concentration on the palate. - Red Chinon ‘Clos d’Isore’ 1995, Jean-Maurice Raffault | $150
One of the dinosaurs of the Loire (c. 1693) consistently putting out fantastic Cab Franc. Here, with 15 years of bottle age. Earthy and herbaceous geek juice.
- Sparkling Brut Blanc de Blancs ‘Grande Cuvee’ 2002, Ployez Jacquemart | $195
- Treat Yourself
- White Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1996, Paul Pernot | $440
Traditional Grand Cru Burg from this famed Puligny-based producer. Earthy, mineral driven neoclassical juice from an iconic vintage. - Red Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Howell Mountain’ 1999, Dunn Vineyards | $465
Randy Dunn is one of CA’s iconic non-conformists--a true cowboy in a sea of nouveau producers. Plenty of cache for under $500, and drinking like a well-integrated champ at 10-years out. Send it to the decanter for a bit though. - Red Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 1996, Hudelot-Noellat | $575
A correct Burg from an exceptional vintage and one of the most revered vineyard sites in the Cote-du-Nuits. Expressive, funky juice that is showing exceptionally well now. - Red Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos des Chenes’ 1996, Michel Lafarge | $545
Year after year, Lafarge produces some of the most impeccably crafted traditional Burgs in Volnay. This is a pretty village-level effort from the fantastic 96 ‘vintage that could charm the pants of even the stodgiest of haters. - White Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Pucelles’ 1997, Domaine Leflaive | $560
No conversation about ethereal Burgundy is complete without mention of Leflaive. He makes some of the headiest white wines in the world. This is just tumbling into its zone and is almost dreamlike at this pricing. Pair with satyrs and tree gnomes. - Red Masseto 2000, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia | $675
Some call this mind blowing single vineyard Merlot the Petrus of Italy. The ’00 is in an awesome spot and at a fraction of the prince of Pomerol’s asking price. Deep, melodious, fascinating stuff. - Red Pauillac 1996, Lynch Bages | $865
One of our Favorite Chateaux from arguably the best vintage of the ‘90s, this is just starting to show its worth. Call ahead for a decant
- White Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1996, Paul Pernot | $440
- Crowd pleaser
- White Chassagne-Montrachet 2006, Michel Niellon | $160
- Red Pauillac 1999, Grand-Puy-Lacoste | $230
- House Wine Stats
- 47 wines by the glass with average cost of $28 per glass
- Bolly Index
- $260 (375 ml)
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